This 1836 red-and-white reversible jacquard-woven coverlet, composed of linen and wool from the Jordan House in West Des Moines, Iowa, was in fair to poor condition. The edges of many of the sides are fraying with loose yarn throughout. Read about the conservation process and how Nickole at Heritage Textile Conservation conserved this coverlet and the entire 30+ hour process below.
Circa 1836 red-and-white reversible jacquard-woven coverlet composed of linen and wool (82 x 77.5 inches). The red-and-white color scheme is characteristic of coverlets from this period. Each lower corner is inscribed: “Catherine Ann Peters F Y Fayett 1836.” The border features multiple stylized tree motifs, including pine trees. The field displays a repeating four-block rose pattern, with a single floral element connecting the corners. Rows of stars appear between each block. Evidence of hand stitching is present along the center seam, where the two loom-woven sections were joined at the time of manufacture. The textile is most likely a “Summer-and-Winter” coverlet, with the predominantly white side intended for lighter summer use and the predominantly red wool side for heavier winter use.
Treatment goals: Improve the overall look of the coverlet and stabilize it to extend the life of the object. Retain as much of the original thread as possible and use minimally invasive treatments to retain the original integrity of the coverlet.
Conservation process: Treatment started with a dry vacuum cleaning to remove surface dust and particulate matter, helping to prevent further deterioration. Pollutants as common as dust can leave a lasting effect on textiles. Although it seems harmless, dust particles are very small, sharp, gritty particles that can cut through textile fibers, leaving them weakened.
All of the original thread and yarn were kept intact and not trimmed. Each stitch was chosen based on the needs of the object and the stability of the surrounding yarn. Each stitch followed the natural look of the object to ensure visual integrity of the piece. The conservation stitches were completed in a way that is visible and reversible to ensure future conservation services, if needed, can be easily completed while keeping the integrity of the object.
Before: notice the white linen yarn towards the edge has deteriorated, leaving large holes.
After: no yarn was trimmed to ensure the most minimally invasive treatment possible. All loose yarn was secured using a variety of conservation stitches.
Before: notice the loose white linen along the edge.
After: the yarn was secured using couch and blanket stitches.
Before: all the white linen yarns in the upper rose and leaf pattern were loose, causing large holes between the threads.
Before: the loose material was secured using conservation stitches to ensure the yarns would stop unraveling and keep the pattern intact.
Before: notice the center seam that attaches the two woven sections at the time of manufacture is coming apart. The white yarn on the floral pattern on each side of the seam has deteriorated.
After: the seam was brought back together with color-matched yarn. The loose yarn in the floral pattern was secured following the original pattern. The hole in the red yarn was secured using figure 8 stitches. The rolled edge was secured to prevent further fraying.
This beautiful object holds a memory and has a story to tell. Luckily, the stewards at the Jordan House recognized that this story is worth preserving. Now that this coverlet has been safely conserved, it can return to West Des Moines, Iowa, to share its story at the Jordan House, a historic Victorian home, museum, and key site on the Underground Railroad.
If you have an object you'd like to preserve for future generations, contact Nickole here or send her an email at NickoleSwensen@gmail.com