1861 Mary Todd Lincoln Dress

#ObjectOfTheWeek is this stunning purple velvet dress created by African American designer Elizabeth Keckley. Worn by First Lady Mary Lincoln during the Winter social season of 1861-1862, the bodice featured would be worn during the daytime. Another more night-appropriate bodice would have been worn with the skirt for evening parties.

Designer Elizabeth Keckley was known for her elegant, clean designs and attention to technical detail. She was well known for her design work among the political elite in Washington D.C., was one of the first African American women to publish a book, and was a passionate activist helping to create relief organizations for newly freed enslaved persons.

Born into enslavement, Keckley learned dressmaking skills from her mother. In 1855, she bought her and her son’s emancipation and moved to D.C. In D.C., she met Mary Todd Lincoln and became her primary dressmaker. In fact, during the Spring and Summer of 1861, Keckley made 15 dresses for Lincoln. Elizabeth Keckley built a large-scale business employing 25 seamstresses in 1865 and records show she generated a large profit.

Image: 1861 purple velvet dress ensemble. Object photo © National Museum of American History